Most visitors to Teotihuacan can find the sweet spot for a photo: halfway up the Pyramid of the Moon, looking over the main plaza down the Avenue of the Dead, with the Pyramid of the Sun to the left. The small bumps on its summit are people. The city has survived warfare, famine, armed revolt, over-enthusiastic early 20th Century restorations, art thieves and the latest indignity, an obtrusive Son-et-Lumiere installation. It still presents an imposing face to the world, two millennia after the start of its heyday.